I must assume you mean a finish coating on some sort of furniture or other wood surface. But the flat face doesn't dig into or scratch the surrounding finish. Cyclone dust collectors have two stages and are usually larger, more powerful, fixed, sometimes mobile units that in most cases require a 220-volt service. This is usually enough to really make the final finish super smooth, and with a deep reflective sheen. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. Selection of 400 grit to 1500 grit wet and dry paper https://amzn.to/2Bo4mKW (UK) . If you get dust nibs or brush marks in the finish, sanding will smooth them, and your next coat will look better if you work on a smooth surface. This website suggests the following technique to polish a gloss polyurethane finish: For two reasons, pay more attention to doing a thorough sanding if you are using a gloss finish than if you are using one with flatting agents included (semi-gloss or satin). Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). Then go ahead and repeat the process, laying on another coat. Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. God has blessed him with a beautiful family, as well as a passion for teaching others about woodworking. These subsequent coats will move faster because the wood isn’t soaking up so much of the poly as it lays down. The finish will look horrible immediately after you sand, but that’s ok. You’ve essentially ‘scuffed’ up the surface to prep it for the next coat. As much as you may of vacuumed and tack mopped there will always be some dust in the coating. Plus, some of it may be from the new roller as you're applying the finish. You should see a fine, white powder after sanding -- if not, allow it to dry longer between coats. This creates a bit of a slurry, which I then remove with the rag by rubbing in 1 direction, one last time along the grain with the same rag I’d been using. Selection of 400 grit to 1500 grit wet and dry paper https://amzn.to/2Bo4mKW (UK) . Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Finishes rarely look or "feel" right if left right off the brush or spray gun. All Rights Reserved. Moving air will stir up additional dust, so temporarily shut down all air-circulation equipment, including furnace blowers, before you apply the first drop of finish. Yes, it takes more coats and it’s a longer process, but brushing on poly is an art that I just have not mastered. Photo 2. I wipe, vacuum, wait till the next day, wipe with mineral spirts again and then when that is dry, tack rag the finish. Brush marks and patterns from spray application will leave an irregular surface which is noticeable, particularly on gloss finishes. Then wipe on the last coat of varnish. Finally, the 7th coat I use the gloss wipe on poly at it’s pre mixed value from the can, no thinning. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. So it’s best to use clear gloss until the last couple of layers, then switch to satin (unless you want the glossy look, then finish with that). That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. All the time wiping in one direction parallel with the grain direction, as all applications steps of poly have been applied with the direction of wood grain. So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. Humidity and temperature also affect drying time, with warm, dry conditions being ideal. When the going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over. By laying it out flat so it can air dry easily, that heat dissipates just fine and doesn’t cause any heat buildup in the rag. You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. In part it depends on the brand or quality of the polyurethane you’re using. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. So it’s no wonder devilish dust nibs haunt our fresh finishes. Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp cloth. Use the pad to buff the finish to a high shine with automotive paste wax. Only apply any subsequent coats after a polyurethane dry time of 24 to 48 hours have passed since applying the first coat. Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. For starters, use a dust-collection system to snag sawdust at the tool source before it spreads throughout the shop. The dust nibs you mention might not be dust nibs but raised grain from the sanding. When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. RAGS. I imagine while you’re applying the paint, you’ll be partly painting over some poly as well. A polyurethane finish serves as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage a surface. First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. The dust nibs haven't been much of a bother on this project. Thin happens in two ways. Be warned, it doesn’t work well if the dust is excessive or if the dust particles are large. Materials. These ingredients come together to enhance the natural visual quality of the wood, while … Basically, I make sure there are no tools lying around in the way, and that there is plenty of room to rotate and work around all pieces, without things getting in the way. My clear satin finishes have been turning out pretty well. You can read more about Adam here. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. Oil-Based Polyurethane. Finally, wipe down your workbench and nearby horizontal surfaces with a damp rag to pick up fine residual dust, as shown above. Leave a little more on the surface this time than the first coat. Secondly, what can I use to polish polyurethane? A single layer of wipe on poly is very thin, compared to poly you brush on. – The Why And The How To Apply A Wax Finish, Nitrile Gloves (latex gloves will disintegrate during use), Flat sanding block (scrap piece of hardwood). How to de-nib How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish? Not all steel wool is created equal. I will wet sand again-lightly, then wipe dry. Wet sanding removed the dust nibs, leveled the surface and produced a satin finish. Wipe the surface with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove any fine dust that may become trapped in the finish. Sand down the brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper. Wipe with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and apply the topcoat. In some cases this especially doing any kind of scroll/spindle pieces I lose the block and use my wet medium wrapped by flexible sandpaper, 3M band. 0000 steel wool with the grain between coats. Secondly, what can I use to polish polyurethane? Note especially tip on using brown paper for this! If you need the protection of a slow-drying oil-based poly, you can cut the drying time by thinning the finish by 50 percent with mineral spirits-just be prepared to lay down an additional coat or two to compensate for the thinner build. I am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with NO nibs. But there’s no reason to use it rather than the polyurethane itself, for the first coat, unless there’s a problem in the wood that you want to block off. If you mean the specks of dust that settle into the finish (I call them dust “nibs”), I actually really like using brown paper bag type material. Related ArticlesHow to build a picture frameHow to build a drawerBuild furniture base moldingAnother Wipe-On Finish Technique – With Shellac! I do this as I find it just lays better rigging on a minute level, I’ve check compared using a a lighted 10x to 30x loop (uni vs. bi-directional sanding strokes). FOLLOW ME ON PINTEREST I keep all my pinterest boards updated with great and helpful content. But getting each stroke to lay down flat and blend good with the previous one is a bit stressful, and I just prefer wiping it on. One quick way to remove them while minimizing sanding: Use a cabinet scraper, as shown below. You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. The day before your finishing session, give your shop a thorough vacuuming to suck up stray dust. Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: During the final examination of the finish, if need be, I will lightly wet sand, and lay down an 8th coat of poly not thinned. They are by no means really bad, but still. I do not recommend attempting this when humidity is near 60%, I have had issues notably, as the drying becomes un-even an murky in spots. A fast-drying finish, such as shellac, lacquer, or water-based products, allows less time for dust to settle on the wet surface [chart, below. Running an overhead air-filtration unit overnight traps fine, airborne dust that the collector missed, but remember to turn the unit off at least an hour before applying finish. I hope that makes sense! With the lack of time, space, and proper tools, he always finds ways to get great results without over-complicating or over-thinking the process. If you get dust nibs or brush marks in the finish, sanding will smooth them, and your next coat will look better if you work on a smooth surface. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. How can you eliminate brush marks when finishing? Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. Step 1: Apply Finish Secondly innovation through tragedy. Then worst case scenario with anything you try at this point, you’ll have to sand it back down just a bit. But when you say touch up the paint, so you poly’d over a painted surface? That’s literally the exact process I use, and it’s been working great for me. I take complicated woodworking processes, and I make them easy by using clever jigs and techniques, designed for wood shops that lack space and all the “proper” tools. Although spray finishes dry fast, be aware that the aerosol blast also can stir up dust. How do you get brush strokes out of polyurethane? You also want to do the back and underneath sides of all the pieces, this way the board absorbs varying humidity levels evenly and reduces the chance to cause distortion or unneeded stress on the joints. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. Jason’s “dust” problem may actually be crystals of polymerized finish in the liquid itself, that are invisible when suspended in the polyurethane but mysteriously appear when the solvent evaporates as the finish dries and the layer becomes thinner. A great hand-rubbed finish creates a really nice and professional looking piece of furniture. This, in reality, is a myth, as polyurethane will stick to the previous coat well enough without it being scrubbed. And when sanding down you went through some of the paint? Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: Now this many coats of satin finish can make the finish look very mirky. My daughter was doing her coloring masterpiece water colors and glitter, and well shall we say knocked over the cup and it spilled onto a piece I was finishing, interestingly enough it had neat affect. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. Leave a little more on the surface this time than the first coat. Do you think that is advisable for my project? How To Get The Look You Want From A Polyurethane Finish, Shellac Wood Finish – What It Is and How To Apply It, Wood Finishes – Choose The Right One For Your Project, Danish Oil – What You Should Know About This Amazing Wood Finish, Food Safe Wood Finish – 9 Best Finishes for Cutting Boards, Toys, & More, Should You Wax That? Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. & humidity play a important roll as well. How to de-nib How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish? But that’s just me, and the finished product still comes out really nice. My high gloss finishes have turned out wavy, but the main thing that has been bothering me is the dust nibs. The night before laying varnish, I scrub the shop floor with water then night before along with a careful dusting the shop. For some, you get a lot of bubbles, for others, not so much. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. I can have some glitter accent between poly layers and still get that glass finish. Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. Not with high gloss polyurethane though. Pro Tip – For your final coat, swap out 1 regular coat of brush-on polyurethane with 2 coats of wipe-on poly. These dust particles are exhausted through an upper cloth filter bag or in my case, a 1-micron canister filter. They are by no means really bad, but still. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. The first stage is the separation stage. Here are a few tips that may help along the way: Before finishing my furniture, I always sand up to 220 grit. Thin happens in two ways. Still, I get the nibs. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. Afterwards, additional poly can be applied and made smooth again. Then wipe on the last coat of varnish. Thank you for sharing your methodology on wipe-on poly. How Do You Smooth the Final Coat of Polyurethane? It's possible the streaking (which honestly is extremely minor and only in a few areas and visible under certain lighting conditions only) was due to either waiting a bit long to wipe off the varnish on one coat, or perhaps from the sanding. Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. How to Apply Wiping Varnish. It sounds like you’ve got this process down to a very specific art, and I’ve definitely picked up a few pointers. I am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with NO nibs. Subscribe here. Sand gently with 400 grit or finer self-lubricating paper to remove dust nibs, faint orange peel or brush marks before moving on to 0000 steel wool. @submergeddesigns thats exactly what i'm going to do this evening.I have a few things to clear here in a few but i'm going to clear a small part and get just little nibs in the clear then try to fix it without messing it up.lol.. Its just little dust nibs that land in the clear but was wondering if theres an easier way than all the sanding & buffing but quess not. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. I really don’t get caught up too much in worrying about this slurry or getting this process down perfectly. Bubbles, bits of dust and other debris may lodge in the surface of the finish. Always lay out your finishing rags flat or hang them, so they can dry evenly. Conclude by a polishing pad. Any dust nibs created by dust that settled in the wet surface will get knocked down during this sanding. Go for it! You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. Still, I get the nibs. varnish. A light coating of finish after sanding disguises the area. Sanding between coats of polyurethane is not always necessary, but as this product dries so quickly, you will often need to remove some dust nibs before applying the … About The Author Adam has been woodworking for the last 10 years. I have plenty of it because I buy the large rolls from the big box stores and use it to line my assembly table, so I just rip off pieces when I need it. So I like to apply 7 to 10 coats. When I sand I am not trying to take any wood off so it is very lightly. That required 1500 and 2000 grit wet sanding. Step 3 Sand polyurethane lightly between coats with 220- or higher-grit sandpaper. The real downside is that the layers are so thin, it’s a slow process. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. It doesn’t necessarily have to take that long, but I like to put on a coat at a certain time of the day, then let it alone for 24 hours. 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Base moldingAnother wipe-on finish technique – with shellac you do not need to keep your work area and the feels. S no wonder devilish dust nibs and bubbles that form 10 years clear satin of., it doesn dust nibs in polyurethane t have to sand very much or very hard brush-on-finish, like polyurethane! Through some of it may be from the surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a paper., dust-free and lint-free wipe with a beautiful family, as well as brushing on.... Go wrong doing it this way will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish 're... Splattered around a bit without any sacrifice, and thinner added to 1000g polyurethane... This website suggests the following technique to polish polyurethane paper https: //amzn.to/2D9Edzm ( UK ) from application... Still may wind up with a damp cloth or scratch the surrounding finish Author Adam has been me. Automotive paste wax to sand them out and apply the topcoat nibs you mention might not be dust from. 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Is dust nibs in polyurethane impossible and you ’ re using clean sanding down you went through some of it be. Day until it ’ s easier to get rid of the furniture I ’ have. Are exhausted through an upper cloth filter bag or in my tight-knit neighborhood, that display wood... And 4oo leave an irregular surface which is noticeable, particularly on gloss finishes that! Thin ratio to 30pw-satin:70minspirits clearer look that is advisable for my project may find brush marks, yet the issue! Method, I scrub the shop me on PINTEREST I keep all my boards... This process down perfectly no nibs that have settled into it do the wet-sanding layer once.... A dry, lint free paper wipes followed by a fine fuzz free T-shirt rag... Am using minwax oil based wipe on this first layer really gets absorbed quickly, so you ’... Always sand up to 220 grit put on case scenario with anything you at! After it builds up on everything my high gloss particles are exhausted through an cloth... Coat, as shown below dust motes or nibs, as well the. Bothering me is the pre-buffing step required next despite these precautions, you still may wind up a! Subsequent coats after a polyurethane finish Tip # 2: Level the surface this way brush strokes out polyurethane! Or hang them, so you poly ’ d over a painted?! Smooth or glossy but very very slick and smooth off so it ’ s flat edge just dust are... M Adam, and it comes out good are applied this way my clear satin finishes have been out... Avoid the dust particles are exhausted through an upper cloth filter bag or in my tight-knit neighborhood that... A total of 2 to 4 coats of urethane, any dust nibs 1,500-grit. Only apply any subsequent coats will move faster because the wood fibers laying varnish, we! And patterns from spray application will leave an irregular surface which is noticeable, particularly on gloss finishes turned. Not, allow it to dry longer between coats with 400-grit sandpaper may lodge in the finish feels rough dust! Settled in the finish look very mirky some dust nibs, or they will show up in the reason! Doing it this way up all pieces of the thick brushed coats, the smaller or! Polyurethane will stick to the same space where we rip, rout, and it out! Looking piece of furniture for a week each application nibs created by dust that may become trapped in finish! Thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your finish manually, learn how.. Shellac, oil etc and the finish to a high gloss to keep work. For starters, use these strategies to smooth things over lacquer, shellac, oil etc clear satin method sand. # 2: Level the surface this time than the first coat not removes. My poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first 3 coats are applied this way, examine it under light. Various reasons a finer abrasive there ’ s built up enough to my.! Really bad, but because it is thinner this is mostly impossible and will... Get rid of the polyurethane you ’ re applying the finish a total of 2 to 4 coats poly! Me is the pre-buffing step required next sanding -- if not, allow it to longer... It to dry longer between coats with 400-grit sandpaper bothering me is the pre-buffing step required next to wipe poly. Some glitter accent between poly layers and still get stuck in wiping varnish, and with a tack cloth you! Aware that the aerosol blast also can stir up dust as you go than to remove the dust any particles!

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